Saturday, 31 May 2008

Zudañez Project: Calle Calle













At 3.1 km the mountain plateau of Calle Calle towers above the village of Zudañez. The ascend is steep an takes about one hour by jeep across dirt tracks. The top of Calle Calle consists of irregular rock formations separated by deep clefts. Here the prehispanic inhabitants built their settlement, possibly to seek refuge from belligerent neighbouring tribes. On some boulders rock paintings can be seen, as previously noted by Edmundo Salinas, who has been a regular visitor to the area for about 20 years. Burials are found at the foot of the rocks and a large concave area might have functioned as a water reservoir. Although these features are visible to the naked eye and clearly belonged to an important settlement they have never been documented. In July, with a group of students from London and Groningen and with the help of Zudañez Municipality, we are hoping to make a start. We´ll be mapping the settlement and exploring its relationship to surrounding landscape features. It is highly likely that once we start combing through the bushy terrain and its rocky outcrops, we will discover so far unknown traces of human habitation, such as defence walls.

In our preparatory exploration we were unable to access a part of Calle Calle known for its mummy deposits due to the state of the track. We are hoping to take a group of volunteers there in July as part of a hiking and camping expedition to undertake the necessary recording.

On the photos: Edmundo and Diura, Calle Calle from above and below.

Zudañez Project (2)















Along the River Zudañez lies a complex of 35 Inca storage buildings. Although their existence has been known to the local population and Edmundo Salinas for many years the site has never been properly recorded. As we ventured out to confirm its location we came across a possible settlement, cemetery and prehispanic road, all previously unknown. The wealth of archaeological features is just astonishing! In July we plan to focus on one area, probably Calle Calle, while undertaking reconnaissance work in the surroundings. The project is a collaboration with Zudañez Municipality, who will participate in all aspects of the work. After thorough analysis all materials (this means bits of pot, not treasure!) will be returned to Zudañez to form the basis of a museum. This is the first large scale archaeological project in the Chuquisaca Province and a matter of considerable pride. During our preparatory visit we spoke to many people, such as Internet and ice cream providers as well as hospital workers, and they are all very excited about receiving their visitors. The weather in Zudañez at the moment is bright and sunny, cold in the evening and morning (and on windy mountain plateaus) but hot in the middle of the day.

The photos show the preparatory team including Edmundo and members from Zudañez Council, a prehispanic road and the foundations of an Inca storage building.

Spot the visitors (2)


On May the 12th my parents arrived. They loved staying in Sucre, visited many museums and made day trips for example to Potosi. As they were interested in getting to know Zudanez where the archaeological project in July will take place, we all went for an expedition. Some people, however, got very distracted with a cock fight taking place on the "Plaza" of Zudanez. My father put a bet on one of the animals, although no one knew which one it was. Both animals survived and it was a draw to the disappointment of many. Not all was lost as the owner of the cocks returned all funds invested. He did think that a reward for this act of generosity was appropriate and the two went for a couple of beers afterwards. The slopes of Zudanez had never seemed so slippery!

Hooray he is eight!



Laurence celebrated a very special birthday around May the 13th. His grandparents from Holland arrived the day before and we all enjoyed a special meal in a beautiful orchard. All his friends from school were invited to his party, in which we danced and played games. Particularly successful was pass-the-parcel, which was a novelty here. Laurence is now the proud owner of a beautiful aquarium with a variety of little fishes. He really wanted something bigger and more cuddly, like a puppy. His parents, however, insisted that he should practice looking after an animal, after having had the experience of the guinea pigs being rejected after two weeks. If the fish survive we might move on to something bigger! His very favourite toy remains the game boy and he njoys looking after his very cute virtual pets.

Wednesday, 21 May 2008

Night of the Museums




A couple of months ago Edmundo, director of the Charcas Museum where I work, came up with the idea of organising a night in which all museums of Sucre would be open free of charge. The event was aimed in the first place at the inhabitants of Sucre who hardly visit museums, which is left to foreign tourists. The project was called "Night of the Museums; from Sunset to Sunrise" and over the last months we worked very hard to make it a success. I contributed a session in which visitors are encouraged to handle archaeological objects called "Prohibido no tocar" and materials to encourage children to explore the collection. Edmundo spend weeks talking to the press and visiting radio and television stations. In the week leading up to the 16th of May we were pretty nervous, wondering whether anyone would turn up. The start was slow. The choir who were supposed to open the night in grand style never turned up and half an hour after kick-off all the lights went out. Somehow things got going and we all got involved talking to visitors. After a while I noticed that the museum was getting full but it wasn´t until I looked out of the window that I realised the full extent. Henry was standing outside not being able to get through the crowds. Hordes of people queued up and the street was absolutely packed. There were people of all sorts of backgrounds, townies as well as camposinos (from the rural areas). They came to see the collections rather than to attend the special events, which were relatively poorly attended. It was absolutely amazing! How many people exactly visited the Charcas Museum that night we do not know, but it was certainly thousands!

The photos show the view from the window on the night of the 16th and preparations for the exhibition on colonial mummies.